Beeld: Persoonlijk
Van koffieplantages tot walvissen
Hoe Panama en Costa Rica ons gezin volledig wisten te betoveren
Het is even stil geweest hier op mijn blog. Niet omdat er niets te vertellen was, integendeel. We waren met ons gezin opnieuw op reis en op af en toe wat foto’s delen met vrienden en familie na, zijn we zoveel mogelijk offline geweest. Geen haast, geen schema’s, alleen tijd samen. En wat was dat heerlijk! Zó genoten van de tijd samen. Weer even elke dag 24/7 met mijn jongens zijn, terwijl we ondertussen de allermooiste plekken van de wereld ontdekten.
We maakten een reis door Panama en Costa Rica en zijn verliefd geworden op beide landen. Panama is wat ons betreft mega onderschat, want wat een leuk en veelzijdig land is dat! We hebben zoveel verschillende kanten gezien, terwijl we nog lang niet alles hebben ontdekt. Prachtige bergen, mooie kusten, tropische eilanden en een bruisend oud centrum in Panama-Stad.
Over Costa Rica durven we inmiddels wel te zeggen dat het in onze top 3 van mooiste landen ter wereld is beland. Wauw. Nog steeds zijn we onder de indruk van de natuur en het wildlife daar. Het voelt als één grote dierentuin, waar je dagelijks oog in oog staat met de mooiste dieren. Alles is zó groen en weelderig, afgewisseld met indrukwekkende bergen en langgerekte kusten.
Onze reis begon vlak voor oud en nieuw. We vlogen naar Panama-Stad om daar onze route te starten. Oud en nieuw vierden we in de stad en ondanks de jetlag proostten we samen op het nieuwe jaar, terwijl we het vuurwerk boven de skyline bewonderden.
Daarna vlogen we door naar David en reisden we met een taxi verder naar het dorpje Boquete. Hier is het een stuk koeler dan in het warme Panama-Stad. Boquete ligt in een dal tussen de bergen en de vulkaan Barú; zo’n plek waar het altijd lente lijkt en het heerlijk behaaglijk is. We sliepen op een coffee estate. Boquete staat onder andere bekend om de vele koffieplantages, mede dankzij de vulkanische grond. Overal tijdens onze reis hebben we fantastische koffie gedronken. Een feest, zeker als je net als ik van koffie houdt.
Na het lenteachtige klimaat was het tijd voor tropische eilanden: we vertrokken naar Bocas del Toro. Tropischer dan dit wordt het bijna niet. Stranden met overhellende palmbomen, surfers op de golven, gekleurde houten huisjes op het water en overal vrolijke muziek. We sliepen in een tiny house vlak bij het strand, midden in de jungle. Tijdens deze dagen gingen we ook een dag de zee op. Luke voelde zich een echte piraat toen hij dolfijnen in het wild langs ons bootje zag zwemmen. We maakten zelfs een stop op een onbewoond tropisch eilandje, waar we heel even het echte Cast Away-gevoel hadden.
Na deze stop was het tijd om de grens over te steken. Als sardientjes in een blik zaten we tussen de backpackers in een shuttle richting de grens. Te voet staken we over en stapten daarna in een nieuwe shuttle naar ons eerste Costa Ricaanse dorpje: Puerto Viejo. Het Caribische gevoel hielden we hier nog even vast. Op het strand klonken reggae-tonen en er hing een ontspannen, vrolijke sfeer. We verbleven opnieuw in een prachtig houten huis midden in de jungle. ’s Ochtends werden we wakker van het geluid van brulapen en tropische vogels. In onze eigen tuin zagen we luiaards, leguanen en nog veel meer bijzondere dieren. Luke was vooral onder de indruk van de grote spinnen, kleurrijke kikkers en vreemde insecten.
We bezochten ook een nationaal park, waar we nóg meer wildlife spotten: kapucijnapen, brulapen, luiaards, wasberen, agouti’s, enorme leguanen en zelfs een giftige slang. Gelukkig zat die laatste hoog in een boom. Luke had zijn verrekijker bij zich en kon alles van dichtbij bekijken.
Na een paar dagen verlieten we het Caribische zuiden en staken we het land over om de binnenlanden van Costa Rica te ontdekken. We sliepen vlak bij het dorpje La Fortuna, dat vooral bekendstaat om de Arenal-vulkaan: een indrukwekkende, nog actieve vulkaan. Luke vindt vulkanen sowieso al fascinerend, maar deze maakte extra veel indruk. Hij was nog imposanter dan de vulkaan in Panama. Aan de voet van de vulkaan liepen we een trail van zo’n zes kilometer, waardoor we de vulkaan van dichtbij konden bewonderen. We hadden enorm geluk: precies op het moment dat we uitzicht hadden, trokken de wolken weg en konden we hem in volle glorie zien liggen.
Op onze laatste dag hier overwonnen we onze angsten en bezochten we de hanging bridges: hangbruggen van wel honderd meter lang én hoog, die je wiebelend naar de overkant brengen. Luke vond de eerste brug nog spannend, maar al snel rende hij overal overheen. En wat een uitzicht als je midden op zo’n brug staat!
Daarna verlieten we het binnenland en reden we naar de Pacifische kant van het land, helemaal naar het zuiden, bijna bij de grens met Panama. We stopten in Uvita, een dorp dat bekendstaat als surfplek en als plek waar je twee keer per jaar walvissen kunt zien tijdens hun migratie. We gingen opnieuw de boot op en hoefden gelukkig niet lang te zoeken: al snel zagen we een mannelijke bultrug meerdere keren langs onze boot zwemmen. Vooral het moment waarop hij onder water dook, was indrukwekkend. Wat een gigantische en prachtige dieren.
Onze reis eindigde op het Nicoya-schiereiland bij Playa Castillo, vlak bij het dorpje Sámara. Deze plek bleek een onontdekte parel. Geen massatoerisme, maar rustige, prachtige stranden met vooral locals die met hun koelboxje neerstreken. Geen horeca, behalve een vrouwtje dat verse kokosnoten verkocht. Papegaaien die van boom naar boom vlogen en elke avond een spectaculaire zonsondergang. We hadden hier met gemak nog een week kunnen blijven, maar helaas was het tijd om terug te gaan.
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